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Gerry Lopez: The Hippy In The Eye Of The Storm

Darren Eade
Surfing is in a great place right now. The embarrassing adolescent stage is over and instead we have a synergy of old and new. Lopez’s unique career was the forerunner for all of this. His recipe for success seems simple: family, diet, health, open-mindedness and... it’s got to be said,...
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Reviews 9.5

Book Review: Barbarian Days, A Surfing Life by William Finnegan

Darren Eade
“Surfers are self-centered arseholes sometimes.” I’m sure the surf obsessed among us recognise this sentiment. It’s in that moment when your partner catches you looking out the window at the toetoe plants for wind directions, and checking the tides at the most inconvenient times of the day. I suspect this......
Reviews 8.0

Book Review: NZ Surf: The Collection Vol. 1

Darren Eade
From discussions with artistic souls, cross-stepping wave sliders, neck-tattooed lip-launchers and salty old sea dogs there’s something for everyone in NZ Surf: The Collection Vol.1. Drawing from a range of historical and recent material, and from a variety of contributors, this volume directed by Warren Hawke, is an open-hearted sweep......

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