“Surfers are self-centered arseholes sometimes.” I’m sure the surf obsessed among us recognise this sentiment. It’s in that moment when your partner catches you looking out the window at the toetoe plants for wind directions, and checking the tides at the most inconvenient times of the day.

Book Review: Barbarian Days, A Surfing Life by William Finnegan
by Darren Eade
previous post
Darren Eade
In another life Darren Eade might have been a rockstar – probably one off on a tangent chasing a new genre and defining the sound of a generation as a by-product. Or he'd have been one of those pioneering surfers dodging malaria and wild animals as he traipsed through jungles in search of line-ups straight from the doodles on the desks of school-bound surfers. Instead he lives in New Zealand, surfs nearly every day and teaches English at a local school. In his spare time he thinks and writes about surf culture and you can guarantee there will be a soundtrack straight out of the punk, grunge or rap genre playing.